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“Barbacoa has changed over time to include beef as a common protein choice, Spam musubi is now a well-loved Hawaiian staple, and so forth — but ignoring history in search of ‘approachability’ only serves to entrench distorted power dynamics that persist to this day.”

Also a block away from the theater is Aqui Es Texcoco, known for its lamb barbacoa, which even drew the late Times food critic Jonathan Gold two hours south along the 5 Freeway.

Like the time supporters held her first fundraising party — the star attraction wasn’t Montañez so much as it was the all-you-can-eat, Zacatecas-style beef barbacoa at $10 a plate.

Diners sit on sidewalks and feast on dishes as simple as gelatin in plastic cups and as complex as goat barbacoa baked for hours in a backyard pit.

“Barbecue” comes from barbacoa, a word in the Arawakan language of the Caribbean for a wooden frame used for sleeping and for drying food, Tschann writes.