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Many of these places offer filling but unremarkable fare — making newcomer Santo Palato stand out in a way that goes beyond its bright, polychrome décor.

The ocher walls at Santo Palato are hung with loud, Futurist-style posters embodying the stylized Cubism of 1920s Italian art.

Santo Palato, in the San Giovanni neighborhood, stands out in a way that goes beyond its bright, polychrome décor.

Santo Palato, in the San Giovanni neighborhood, stands out in a way that goes beyond its bright, polychrome décor.

Santo Palato, in the San Giovanni neighborhood, stands out in a way that goes beyond its bright, polychrome décor.