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No West Bengali would have imagined the 50-60 layers of flaky bread that make up the intricate parotta which gets its name from Dhaka, Bangladesh's capital.

Chef Ajay Panicker’s complex, vivid curries — made with meat, seafood, tofu or vegetables — demand to be scooped up with buttery Malabar parotta, the best of several house-made breads.

Here they make naan, kulcha, puri and roti, but my favorite was the Malabar parotta that pulls apart in lacy striations like a croissant.