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“That night we served the hard-boiled eggs with a piquant herbaceous dressing that is somewhere at the intersection of gremolata, chimichurri and paradise,” he continued.

The piquant pudding is one of many foods widely eaten in the Caribbean country that has its origins in Africa and has survived to this day.

Tangy and sweet with the pleasing, piquant bite of reduced apple cider vinegar, it is a celebration of the cranberry and a world-class condiment on a turkey sandwich.

It all plays like a modern riff on Roald Dahl, with that writer’s wit and penchant for the piquant cruelty of kids and adults alike, filtered through Elliot’s more wistful if equally whimsical sensibility.

You open the door and get hit with that familiar, piquant draft of deli indulgence, and customers happily volunteer to tell you about their first visits, decades ago, with parents or grandparents.