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All of which makes this second memoir as rich as a mushroom ragout.

The mandate to still provide all the necessary details of the watch — a ragout of numbers, abbreviations and surnames — requires some contortions.

At Kulture, Davis gives a rotating group of young Black chefs a place to iterate on classic dishes like oxtail ragout, fried fish fillets and johnnycakes.

It’s a long way from the early McCartney family experiments with vegetarian entrees like stuffed vegetables and murky ragouts, Ms. McCartney said.

There was a warm tart of creamy crab ragout spiced with ’nduja in a brik shell, but it somehow didn’t work as well as the Basque txangurro that seemed to inspire it.