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For certain fish, however, including 79 percent of red salmon, 56 percent of crab and 47 percent of sea urchin imported into Japan, Russia is the dominant supplier.

“A barrel of oil was worth less than one red salmon. As a legislature, we were scratching our heads about how to give our state a boost.”

Even the plump, red salmon were visible from above.

Higher temperatures can harm the plankton that salmon eat, Templin said, but there isn’t enough data to explain whether that has affected the red salmon.

Many chefs kept red salmon off the menu in the early season, waiting for the price to fall, but it never did.