51�Թ�

I mean love it — in the way one loves a very specific pen, or a particular font of sparkling water: a devoted, slightly niche affection, underlined with ritual.

We’re surrounded by shelves stacked with boxes of Red Vines, Kit Kats and sparkling water.

But a glass of sparkling water contains less than a gram of carbon dioxide – and this will be absorbed in minutes.

Yet when Renteria visits the Salton Sea State Recreation Area and gazes out at the sparkling water, she sees possibility.

Her rose-tinted beverage uses a gin base washed in strawberries and Greek yogurt, topped with Prosecco and sparkling water.