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Iceberg barely registers as flavor, but its crunch delivers deep satisfaction, especially the white core, which, when fresh, pops with subtle moisture like vegetal Pop Rocks.

The vegetal purity of this dish—emboldened by halloumi as the centerpiece—is more than enough.

Bamboo shoots lend a vegetal, earthy crunch; red onion adds its sideways sweetness and eye-opening zip.

The larger, so-called coarse particles, have diameters between 2.5 and 10 micrometers; some examples of this type of particulate matter include wind-blown dust, fly ash and animal or vegetal particles.

But this is no general screed; Sinclair’s stormy father, brilliant but perpetually stoned mother and fiercely loyal siblings leap off the page, as does the island in all its vegetal, stifling richness.