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As written by Bon Appétit’s former food director Carla Lalli Music, “Zucchini is like the glass of water that’s been sitting on your bedside table while you were away all weekend during a heatwave, and you know your cats have been drinking out of it.”

I’m talking miso-spiked tahini blends from the Bon Appétit test kitchen.

But the version that got me thinking differently — that nudged me toward the edges of what ranch could be — was Chris Morocco’s tahini ranch, published in Bon Appétit in 2017.

But its Sia-written lead single Chained to the Rhythm, which boldly attacked mindless pop culture, appeared to be undermined by Bon Appetit, a song openly objectifying Perry as a sexual meal.

Bon Appétit’s Sam Stone wrote: “The company has created cookies that photograph well, and that are highly anticipated. But, in the end, it’s quite widely acknowledged that the cookies are not amazing. Not even great — good is generous, and okay is a stretch!”