51�Թ�

Aragon tells me El Cabrito does make its own, too, but you have to ask for them.

One of the best things about El Cabrito — well, aside from its pozole rojo, so spicy and comforting — is its desire to nurture those who embrace the business, starting with the five brothers who, as Aragon tells me, first take care of one another.

El Cabrito’s commitment to its community extends to the menu, where you’ll find big caloric platters such as El Ranchero and the aptly named Tres Animales.

El Cabrito’s tlayuda may be short on showmanship, but it’s packed with more meats, beans and cheese than that tortilla can contain, especially if you order it with the campechano mix of proteins, which I suggest you do.

El Cabrito offers exactly one mole, but it’s solid: a streamlined, turbocharged take on Coloradito mole.