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Juan Carlos once enjoyed broad support across the political spectrum, reflected in an old Spanish motto that goes, “I’m not a monarchist, I’m a Juan Carlist.”

Soldiers in the Second Carlist War, in mid-19th-century Spain, wore red ones; French Resistance members donned them during World War II; Che Guevara is known for his black beret; they were a signature of the Black Panther uniform; Beatniks and other midcentury countercultures embraced the style.

Earlier, Franco had been impressed by the idea of Catholic corporatism and in 1935 had carefully noted the updating of Carlist doctrine in Víctor Pradera’s El Estado Nuevo, which called for a new Spanish monarchy, but he concluded that these approaches were too right wing and lacked broad mass appeal.

The unification was not popular with either the Falangist or the Carlist militants, but under the existing conditions of total civil war, the immense majority accepted Franco’s initiative.

Other stories about the origin of the dish attribute it to a merchant who ordered too much fish during the Second Carlist War.