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On their first date, in 2009, overlooking Milan’s duomo, the two men talked about the idea of gay couples’ having families.

Its duomo, or main cathedral, has a soaring, mosaic-covered Gothic facade and is among the most famous in Italy.

The 25,000-square-foot coffee duomo, following the Roastery format’s debut on Capitol Hill in 2014 and in Shanghai last year, was built in a palazzo that once held a post office.

In the smallest of the bars opposite the duomo itself, people of all sorts were starting their day with glass cups of almond, coffee or lemon granita, spoonfuls alternated with bites of warm brioche.

The lion doorway of the duomo at Trau is certainly one of the finest things in Dalmatia.