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"I wrote this from the perspective of, 'well I could never say that'," the singer, real name Ella Marija Lani Yelich-O'Connor, says.

“I grew up on a farm, listening almost exclusively to legends like Ella Fitzgerald, Judy Garland, Billie Holiday, Mel Tormé and Duke Ellington,” she says.

Laboratory testing of 18 pouches made by Ella's Kitchen, Heinz, Piccolo, Little Freddie, Aldi and Lidl found many to be low in vitamin C and iron, while some contained more sugar in a single pouch than a one-year-old should have in a day.

When we put this to the brands, the market leader Ella's Kitchen said it agreed with all three points.

Ella's Kitchen, for example, describes savoury products as "perfectly balanced for growing babies", while Piccolo claims many pouches are "packed with goodness".