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Ms. Galla, who has won Olympic gold three times for cross-country skiing, took second in the competition behind YouTuber Hampus Hedström.

Farther west, in Schwerin, Germany, Marina Galla, a computer science teacher who left Mariupol with her 13-year-old son in late March, has found relief and stability.

In a black backpack she has carried every day since leaving Mariupol, Galla keeps a handwritten note in a side pocket listing contact information for her mother, father and grandmother.

“He probably understands,” Galla said, “that we will not be able to go back there.”

Her greatest pop-up hits are served here, including her seven-layer lasagna, miso Caesar salad and, arguably her best dish, the fresh pasta creste di galla with arugula lemon pesto.