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Instead, Law’s chiseled abs and insouciant grin were the secondi piatti following the generous serving of Andrew Scott’s Hot Priest on “Fleabag.”

To an Italian, they're completely incomprehensible, because pasta is a primo piatto, a first course, and meat is a secondo, and never the twain shall meet.

In the best Emilian tradition, antipasti revolve around cheese and cured pork, and the secondi are rich but not overly elaborate: a butter-basted sirloin, for instance, with a sauce of sweet red peppers.

But to order only pasta—for example, the five-course tasting menu—would be to miss the secondi, which include a beautiful veal cheek in gremolata and a charred sirloin with herb salad.

“Taking advantage of the great Italian culinary system of “primi” and “secondi” plates is a must for me — which is to say, pasta and fried veal at every meal.