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In North Africa and the Levant, it’s shakshuka: eggs poached in a rich, spiced tomato sauce that hisses when it hits the pan and settles into something molten and slow.

Open since the beginning of October, Cohen says breakfast — featuring shakshuka, avocado toast and Israeli omelets — is served daily until noon, while the rest of the menu, with crisp schnitzel sandwiches and crunchy fried cauliflower, is served until 7 p.m.

Similar to a Spanish or Italian sofrito, the tomato-red pepper sauce often is made in big batches, then used as the flavor base for soup, cooked down for a dip, mixed with eggs like shakshuka, or ladled over fried fish.

Sprinkle feta on top of shakshuka.

Sprinkle feta on top of this shakshuka.