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Henry Dimbleby’s pink peppercorn dressing is a distant, rather more glamorous relative, using single cream.

Whisk the rest of the milk in until the batter is more like single cream.

Bring the milk, single cream and vanilla bean paste to a slow simmer over a medium heat.

"I couldn't believe that there roughly the same number of calories in two large glasses of wine as in a glass of single cream," she confessed.

Though saag paneer is almost always served dry in British Indian restaurants, Jaffrey and Stein finish theirs with single cream and yoghurt respectively, with Stein suggesting a little double cream too "for a richer dish".