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Then came a row of deep-fryers, a range, a big Garland pull-out broiler, a few more burners, and finally a brick hearth for charcoal grilling, all of this bordered by the usual pass-through on the other side — wooden cutting board/counter with sunken steam table, and below that, the low-boy reach-in refrigerators for reserve supplies.

There’s a steam table filled with rice and curry dishes, and all the way at the back of the store is a full butcher counter, hanging legs of lamb swaying in a cold room, waiting to be broken down.

Or maybe I would have been behind the steam table giving customers dollops of carrots and carving their turkey.

As found nearly every day at the steam table in this bright and welcoming shop in Astoria, Queens, roughly crushed egusi seeds provide the nutty and crunchy substance of this West African stew, cradling spinach and red peppers cooked just long enough to be tender.

Second, the lamb shanks and chicken must be available for immediate consumption, ready to serve straight from a steam table.