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The retro sounds and evocative locations, real or recreated, are appealing in their own right but don’t summon the redolent Sunset Strip-and-Laurel Canyon vibe that they’re supposed to; the flavor is artificial, like rock ‘n’ roll surimi.

Surimi is a fish that effectively becomes crab or lobster meat for many of us - and stars in California rolls across the land.

It also can be made into a paste called surimi.

At a Trident plant in Minnesota, the surimi is transformed into products such as a flaked protein that resembles crab meat.

It is the biggest single-species catch off the nation’s coasts, and yields products that include surimi, a fish paste used in many simulated seafood products, and the fillets for fish burgers that are staples at McDonald’s fast-food outlets.