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The sauce shifts, taking on the sweet flavors of the crab shells, meat and tomalley, and the cioppino comes into view.

The server brightly suggested dunking its tomalley into the smoked potato purée, and I would have tried it if I had found any tomalley.

I detected a hint of tomalley, that blue-crab gland with the headstrong flavor.

Made from a family recipe, it’s a savory casserole of buttery meat, cracker crumbs and the luscious lobster tomalley.

Well technically, it’s the tomalley—a digestive gland that’s the intestine, liver, and pancreas.